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forgruan
Member since Aug-30-05
1 posts
Aug-30-05, 01:49 AM (CST)
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"biplane wing install question"
 
   Hi everyone :
how to install my biplane wings ..
original link http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1753 (i launch it)

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Phillips201
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89 posts
Sep-02-05, 08:08 AM (CST)
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1. "RE: biplane wing install question"
In response to message #0
 
   I'm not really sure if I understand your question.

If you're building a Hatz Biplane, you install the wings as shown on the plans which is a 25 inch positive stagger (50% chord) and 50 inch gap (100% chord). This provides a good range of CG travel, good stability, relatively good cockpit ingress/egress and good visibility from both cockpits. It also provides good angles for the bracing wires to give good strength and light weight. I wouldn't advise you to change any of this unless you're well equipped to do both the structural and aerodynamic analyses for the new configuration.

If you're not building a Hatz but are interested in designing your own biplane, I can offer a rudimentary rationale for positive stagger.

First, positive stagger causes the bottom wing to operate in the downwash of the top wing, especailly at high angles of attack. This effectively lowers the angle of attack for the bottom wing which means that if will still be flying when the top wing stalls. This produces a more gentle stall than if they both stalled at the same time and if the ailerons are on the bottom wing, you will still have aileron control when the top wing is stalled. The same effect could be achieved by incorporating some decalage (different angles of incidence between the top and bottom wings), but that produces excessive drag in the cruising regime. Positive stagger was really a clever way to achieve good stall characteristics without affecting other flight regimes.

Second, stagger increases the range of travel of the center of gravity over what woudl be possible with zero stagger. Since most biplanes have narrower chord wings than comparable monoplanes, this is very desirable, especially since most planes use tandem seating which requires a wide CG range. Randy Brooks has writtten a good easy to understand procedure for calculating the CG of a biplen with stagger, It is located on the builders page under his name if you are interested.

Third, moving the top wing forward allows the horizontal tail to be brought forward and still avoid the downwash from the top wing. This allows a shorter fuselage structure which results in less weight while still maintaining good stability.

Fourth, positive stagger allows easier ingress/egress for both cockpits.

The interference between the top and bottom wings is most noticible at high angles of attack (take-off, climb, glide and langing) and has very little effect at cruise speeds. If you're after ultimate aerodynamic efficiency, you shouldn't be considering a biplane anyway. Biplanes ruled during the early years of aviation because the provided a rigid structure at light weight. They also had a higher rate of roll due to their shorter wings which was very desirable for a fighter plane. While there have been some very fast biplanes (Beech Staggerwing, Grumman F3F-3, Laird Super Solution, Japanese Pete. etc.), it's much easier to go fast if you're only pulling one wing through the air.

If you are interested in a detailed technical investigation of this subject, there are several good NACA technical papers available. The link to their technical server is http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/
Most of the biplane stuff is found in the years 1917 through 1932.

Sorry to write such a long response to a simple question, but sometimes I get carried away. I hope this has helped.

Jim Phillips


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jhughes
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Nov-24-06, 06:49 AM (CST)
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5. "RE: biplane wing install question"
In response to message #1
 
   hi jim

I was wondering if you had a source for the 60 inch wing gap. I can't find it anywhere on the prints and I want to be sure I get it right the only measurement I can find is on print 11 on the upper left hand side that show a measurement of 2' 3'' from the top longeron to the bottom of the spar. Also where would you measure the gap from? would it be spar hole on the the bottom attach fitting to the spar hole on the top attach fitting or from the top of the bottom wing to the bottom of the top wing?
thanks

j Hughes


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alvinsager
Member since Oct-5-04
63 posts
Sep-02-05, 08:31 AM (CST)
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2. "RE: biplane wing install question"
In response to message #0
 
   Jim, your description makes good sense. Being new to biplanes it helps explain some issues. I have noticed that quie a few builders increase the gap for ease of getting into front pit. I am a couple of months away from work on my cabane. Are there any negative affects of raising the top wing 2"?
Thanks,
Al


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Phillips201
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89 posts
Sep-02-05, 09:04 AM (CST)
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3. "RE: biplane wing install question"
In response to message #2
 
   Not really. There is a little increase in weight from the longer cabane and interplane struts as well as the aileron slave struts (if you're using four ailerons). The wire angles actually improve a little bit.

The only negative is that the longer a slender column like an interplane strut is, the more apt it is to buckle. The critical buckling load is inversely proportional to the square of the strut length, so there is a definite limit beyond whch you dare not go. However, I know there have been several Hatz Biplanes built with raised center sections, so I think you would be OK. You might be able to go back to Jureg's stress analysis to figure out how close the original design is to the critical buckling load and then see what how much the critical load is reduced with the additional strut length.

Jim


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alvinsager
Member since Oct-5-04
63 posts
Sep-02-05, 07:52 PM (CST)
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4. "RE: biplane wing install question"
In response to message #3
 
   Thanks, I will. I have ailerons only on the bottom wings, and after reading your description of how the wings work, I feel better about my choice.


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