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MTaylor
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Jun-16-06, 11:40 AM (CST)
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"Flying wire tension"
 
   I searched for a thread dedicated to this topic and found nothing. I'm sure that I remember reading posts about tensions of flying wires, but a short and nonextensive search found nothing. So...here's a dedicated thread if anyone has input.

My reason for searching out this topic is to follow up on a phone call I just got from David Stone of Steen Aero (purveyers of finest of Brunton flying wires). He had recieved a phone inquiry from a fellow Hatz builder about the tension required on the flying wires of the Hatz. David responded with the information he had of Skybolt builders using a fishing scale to calibrate the tension to 30 lbs. of pull at a deflection of 1 1/2". The tail wires are 20 lbs. of pull at 1 1/2" deflection. And, as it's told, someone eventually used a real life, honest to goodness tensiometer to double check the tension on wires tensioned by the fishing scale method and found the readings to be close (Caasi, close means a little less than perfect ) It seems to me that the Skybolt is similar in dimension, right? Or not?

So heres for the discussion...

Mark T
Hatz #493


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klr12
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Jun-16-06, 12:09 PM (CST)
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1. "RE: Flying wire tension"
In response to message #0
 
   Mark,
I too asked the very same question over on the Classic side of the forum. When I went seatching for and answer, I came up with numbers and methods all over the place including the infamous "B" flat twang. I also came up with this link: http://www.bigskystearman.com/AssemblyManual.html
I know it's not Hatz but it's a lot of good info on constructing wood wings. As for numbers to use, your guess is as good as mine.
Kevin R
HC #039


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mdevroy
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Jun-18-06, 09:46 AM (CST)
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2. "RE: Flying wire tension"
In response to message #1
 
   Hey Hatz Nutz!

'Crazy' Mike here!

'Not certain if $.02 is worth ANYTHING anymore, but here goes...

After going thru the same quest for rigging information as the rest of you, I, too, came up with the Fish Scale Method...

Initially, I REMEMBERED: 1" deflection with a 50# pull.

I tried that and was SERIOUSLY afraid that I WOULD break something by tightening the wires to that extent!

So, I tried 15# of pull and a 1" deflection...

(50, 15, ...Kinda sounds the same! PLUS... Just try to reach over the wing and apply 50# of pull... IT AIN'T EASY!!! 15 is plenty difficult, especially during multiple adjustments!!!)

15 and 1 WORKED GREAT! - EVEN GAVE ME THE "B FLAT" TONE!

The Fish Scale that I used had a built in tape measure...

I extended, (and fixed), the tape 1" BEYOND the "hook" on the scale, which then gave me the PERFECT 1" reference.

For a "zero" reference, I strung "carpet thread" between the "fork end-clevis pin" centers.

I would then, pull the fish scale until the tape end matched the carpet thread, and then read the scale... Tightening or loosening until it read 15#!

Sometimes a 1/2 turn was too much of a correction... which then required altering the tension by, essentially, 1/4 turn. I accomplished this by loosening the wire enough to detach the fork end on one end and making a correction by turning ONE fork end ONLY, 1/2 turn.

As a Final Check... I compared the "sound" of "similar length" wires!

I'm now thinking of getting into the "Piano Tuning" business.

Hope this helps!

'Til next time,

Happy Landings!

CM

Michael R. Devroy
W1257 Luscombe Lane
Lake Geneva, WI 53147
C: 847-224-5192
H: 262-248-4190
mdevroy@earthlink.net


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n31tf
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Jul-09-06, 09:56 AM (CST)
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3. "RE: Flying wire tension"
In response to message #0
 
Hi Mark,

Mister Timely Response, that's me!

I'm going to speculate that the reason that you've found little published about specific flying wire tension is that for the Hatz, as for most biplanes, within broad limits it doesn't really matter.

The flying wires' purpose of course is just to hold everything snugly together so the geometry of the rig doesn't change. (Don't want wings flying off, or dihedral changing, or whatever). Whatever value it takes to do that is tight enough, and that sets the minimums. We also don't want them so tight that they deform the structure under greatest load (max rated G's), so whatever top number is just below that deformation point is the maximum value.

There's probably some w-i-d-e differences between those min and max numbers on any airframe, and anywhere in that range is okay. Indeed, whatever value you finally settle on is gonna change as the weather and flight load changes anyway.

{As an aside to illustrate the point: I once asked homebuilt designer Mike Fisher how tight he set the flying wires on his designs. He told me that because he trailered his aircraft to various fly-ins and shows as a marketing thing it was a pain to keep tightening and loosening things -- so he left the main flying wires so loose that he could remove the attachment bolts by hand without ever unsafetying the wires' turnbuckles! Not that I'm advocating the same for us, but I guess it emphasizes the wide limits I'm describing.}

But while the exact amount of tension may not be critical, it is important that whatever amount you select be consistent so that there are no unnecessary asymmetric loads anywhere. The purpose of the oldtimers setting their wires to hum B-flat (or whatever silly note they chose) wasn't to set a specific tension -- it was to set a similar tension. If similar wires all hummed the same note, they were all at the same tension. I think that's what we want to strive for.

Presume there's nothing Hatz-specific that makes any of this invalid, but if there is I sure hope somebody'll straighten me out!

regards as ever,
Terry


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M Lightsey
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Jul-11-06, 09:06 AM (CST)
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4. "RE: Flying wire tension"
In response to message #0
 
   Interesting subject. I've heard a lot of guy's claim they can set wire tensions by sound. I bought a tensiometer from Holloway Engineering http://www.radialengine.com/ and have had the chance to check the rigging of quite a few airplanes. The bottom line is that you have to be able to measure the wire tension accurately.
As far as the actual tension settings, it varies widely by aircraft design, but the main goal is that the tension has to be enough to maintain the rigging and keep the wires from becoming slack or vibrating during flight. It's also critically important that parallel wires have the same tension so they're sharing the load equally. If not, one wire is carrying a disproportionate share of the load and it fails, the load gets instantly transfered to the remaining wire which will likely fail as well.
In most older biplanes, the flying wires will end up somewhere between 500# to 750# and the landing wire will be 100#-200# more.
Mark


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perszyk
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Jan-25-07, 04:36 PM (CST)
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5. "RE: Flying wire tension"
In response to message #4
 
   I have had the opportuniuty to re-rig my wings and re-tension my wires in the past two years. We used a tensionometer from WWWII. I had a good friend do it for me that has rebuilt many biplanes over the past 50 years and knows the ropes.
He's the most anal guy I have ever met, so I'm 150% sure the numbers are good.
A tensionometer is the easiest way to do it however if you can get your hands on one.
My friend also suggest the B-flat method to check them on a preflight.

I have the actual numbers at home in my logs but I am currently in Florida....
I can email them to any one that needs them when I get back home abround Feb 20th.

Anyone wants the numbers please email me at (ray_perszyk@LPK.com) and I'll forward them as soon as I get back to Ohio.
Ray Perszyk
305 743 5030
PS the numbers mark has listed below sound like they may be close.

I bought a tensiometer from
>Holloway Engineering http://www.radialengine.com/ and
>have had the chance to check the rigging of quite a few
>airplanes. The bottom line is that you have to be able to
>measure the wire tension accurately.
> As far as the actual tension settings, it varies widely by
>aircraft design, but the main goal is that the tension has
>to be enough to maintain the rigging and keep the wires from
>becoming slack or vibrating during flight. It's also
>critically important that parallel wires have the same
>tension so they're sharing the load equally. If not, one
>wire is carrying a disproportionate share of the load and it
>fails, the load gets instantly transfered to the remaining
>wire which will likely fail as well.
> In most older biplanes, the flying wires will end up
>somewhere between 500# to 750# and the landing wire will be
>100#-200# more.
>Mark


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