Rivets

[Nick]

Hey there builders,

I'm just starting to have to begin to think about rivets. I've been reading the Aircraft Sheet Metal handbook, which is very useful.
But for those of you who built aluminum ailerons per the classic plans, what rivets did you use? There seem to be so many choices.

Thanks in advance

Nick

[Nick]

Echo...echo....echo...echo....echo.......

Anybody out there use rivets on their plane?

Seriously though, any advice, tips, comments, stories of disaster, anything would be appreciated as I learn these new skills.

Thanks

Nick

[rupertjl]

Nick,

I've only built one aileron so far but I used solid rivets and a squeezer to make that one. I'll make the other three to match (hopefully!)

v/r,
Jud

[Bill Rusk]

Nick

Sorry you did not get much response. I am not sure how qualified I am to answer but here is what I have learned. Generally 98% of all your rivit needs can be handled by AN426 flush and AN470 Dome head rivits. These are solid AL rivits. Most riviting is done using #3 rivits so you need a 1/4 pd or less (get 1/8pd if you can) of 3-3,3-4, and 3-5 of each AN426 and AN470. You may also want to get the same in #4 ie 4-3,4-4,and 4-5. This will cover no kidding 98%. The other 2 % can usually be begged from your local RV builder, A&P etc.
I prefer the Avery tool squeezer PN 9400. You will need dimple dies #3 and #4 and squeezers. You might consider PN8014 from Avery. You will also need countersinks and a cage. Clecos and pliers. A plate nut drill jig is invaluable as are hole transfer pins. I know this is a bit of an investment but tools will last a lifetime. Hope this helps

Bill

[Nick]

Bill, that reply is most useful, and confirms some of my findings. Thanks!

Nick

[Nick]

OK, Bill here are a couple of questions on your response.

1. A squeezer? All the stuff I've read so far only talks about a pneumatic rivet gun and a bucking bar. Do you think I'll only need a squeezer for all/most applications?

2. The Avery 9400 appears to be the handles only with no yolk. What size of yolk do you find most useful? Did you need multiple sizes?

3. As to the other things I'll need, Clecos, countersinks, pliers, that's all good. What's the cage?

4. Where did you find a plate nut drill jig? Or does one build one's own?

Thanks again,

Nick

[Nick]

And.....on the subject of ailerons, what's the best way you guys have found to make a nice clean slot in the aileron skin for the attach fittings?

Nick

[Bill Rusk]

Nick

I have been able to do almost all of my riviting with a hand squeezer. I have used a vice to hold the die and a hammer in a few places. Actually works quite well. Again, if you run into the 2% where you need a rivit gun you can probably set it all up and get a little help from a friend with a rivit gun.

I have, and use, a 3" yoke. You could use a 4 inch. It would give a little more depth but it is also more unwieldly for the rest of the time. Maybe get a 2" and a 4". Lots of options.

Part #8014 from Avery is a die set that has #3 and #4 dimplers and squeezers. Just about all you will need.

The cage is a tool that holds the countersink cutter. It is also called a Micro-stop. It allows you to set the depth of the countersink so you don't cut too deep. They run about 30 bucks.

Here is a link to Avery's plate nut jig. No picture. http://www.averytools.com/pc-892-28-pla ... -jigs.aspx
Here is a link to a picture http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolc ... ct=&page=3
They are really handy and you probably only need one, for the #6 screws. Try to use the same type and size screw as much as possible. It really simplifies maintenance later.

I have used a Dremel for a lot of applications. It is really handy. A Dremel with a cut off wheel makes a nice slot. A little clean up with a file and you are there. Don't forget to drill the corners or otherwise round them so you don't have a square corner which will create a stress riser and thus be a place for a crack to start.

Hope this helps

Bill
I feel a little funny making all these suggestions. There are folks on this site that have forgotten more than I will ever know. Feel free to jump in here folks.

[Nick]

Hello again gents,

Given the choice between soft (A) and hard (AD) rivets, I'm presuming the soft rivets are sufficient for a Hatz, given that they have a tensile strength of 16000 psi, which essentially means you could lift a whole Hatz on, i guess, just a few rivets. Does that sound right?

Nick

[mtaylor]

Nick,
Best to use soft. They work harden as you buck them. Hard rivets can ruin your soft aluminum as you bang the h*ll out of them trying to get the shop end to proper size.